MONDULKIRI PROVINCE OVERVIEW |
| Geography |
Demographics |
Telephone |
Capital: Sen Monorom
Location: Eastern
Area: 14,288 km2
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Population: 32,407
Density: 2.3 /km2
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Calling code |
| Town and Districts |
| Kaev Seima , Kaoh Nheaek , Ou Reang , Pechr Chenda ,Saen Monourom |
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| General Information
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Mondulkiri means "Meeting of the Hills", a suitable name for such a hilly province. Nestled against Cambodia's eastern border, Mondulkiri really is another Cambodia, with scenery and a climate quite unlike anywhere else in the country. In the dry season it is a little like Wales with sunshine; in the wet season, like Tasmania with dreadful roads. There are endless grassy hills with the occasional clump of pine huddled together against the winds. At an average elevation of 800m, it can get quite chilly at night, so carry something warm with you.
Mondulkiri is the most sparsely populated province in the country, with just two people per sq km. Almost half of the 35,000 inhabitants come from the Pnong minority group, other minorities making up much of the rest of the population. The lack of people adds to something of a wild-east atmosphere and there are certainly a lot of wild animals in the remoter parts of the province, including tigers, elephants, bears and leopards.
There has recently been an influx of refugees returning from the Thai border are, which has pushed province forward a little. Rice farming is picking up, but hunting remains the profession of choice for many minorities. Roads are bad throughout the province, but several have been ear-marked for improvement, which could speed up travel in the next couple of years.
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MONDULKIRI PROVINCE PEOPLE |
| The population of Mondulkiri is 32,407 inhabitants of which 80 percent is made up of ten tribal minorities, with the majority of them being Phnong. The remaining 20 percent are Khmer, Chinese and Muslim Cham. The population lives off the land, planting rice, fruit trees and a variety of vegetables. Others grow strawberries, coffee, rubber and cashew nuts. Although more and more houses are built in 'Khmer style', you still can find the traditional Phnong houses. In the houses you'll find big jars, which are said to be more than a thousand years old, and traditional gongs. There are various sorts of gongs used at different occasions. Jars and gongs are among the most valuable possessions of indigenous communities both in traditional and spiritual as well as material terms. During the times of Pol Pot those objects were buried in hidden places in the jungle and in many cases they still wait in the ground. |
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GETTING IN - OUT
MONDULKIRI PROVINCE |
The airstrip has been closed since mid 2000 and local officials don't expect it to be open in the near future. For now, visitor who want to get to this unique region have to come overland, relatively straightforward in the dry season, but rather more complicated in wet season.
There are three ways to get to Mondulkiri, all of which include the same section of logging road from Snuol to Sen Monorom, and a fourth, harsh trail north to Ratanakiri. This stretch passes through some wild jungle after Khao Si Ma district and is one of the most dramatic roads in Cambodia. There is usually at least one pick-up a day heading from Phnom Penh to Sen Monorom in the dry season, leaving from Psar Thmei soon after 6am, but it's best to arrange a seat the day before, as places are limited.
* The route Kratie to Mondulkiri: If you are coming on the bomb-cratered highway from Kratie, go straight when you get into Snoul town, and when you see hither road curve to the right or left, go left. After about 7 km you come to a four-way junction, where you turn left to Mondulkiri. Snoul to Mondulkiri is about 130 km, and if you are coming from Kratie the entire trip is 215 km.
* The route Kampong Cham to Mondulkiri: Kampong Cham to the Snoul turn off (to go to Mondulkiri) is a lousy but doable stretch of Highway 7. It’s about 143 km to Snoul and 275 km for the entire trip. Just before you reach Snoul town you will notice a police box on the right. The road curves to the right or left, and you go to the right to reach Mondulkiri. About 7 km down you will come to a four-way junction where you turn left for the ride to Mondulkiri.
The road from Snoul to Sen Monorom, Mondulkiri, is a decent, level dirt variety that you can make fairly good time on. This changes during the rainy season when rainfall will make the wet surface as slippery at ice. Food and fuel can be had in Snoul town, with fuel and snacks available at the four-way junction 7 km from the Snoul turn off.
* The route Sen Monorom to Banlung, Rattanakiri: If you want to go by motorcycle from Sen Monorom to Banlung, Rattanakiri in rainy season, you need to follow the simple advice: don’t do it. Even in the dry season, it’s a tough trail that will put your riding skills to the test. Make sure you have spate parts for your motorcycle, and plenty of food and drinking water. The trip will take a couple of days during the dry season and Kaoh Nhek town (near halfway) is the only place that sells bottled water and some food. Fuel is available there as well. Don’t do it alone. It’s best to have some help if you have a bike breakdown or a mishap. You are a long way from help in most stretches of this remote trail. It would also be best to bring along a Khmer speaker, as the trail some times intersects with other trails and you will want to clarify that you took the proper way when you do come across somebody. It’s definitely an adventure, if you try to tackle it, be fully prepared so you have an opportunity to enjoy it. |
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GETTING AROUND
MONDULKIRI PROVINCE |
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The cheapest place to rent a motobike is Arun Reah II Guesthouse. Russian jeeps and pick-up trucks can chartered for the day around Sen Monorom and to Bou Sraa. |
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MONDULKIRI PROVINCE RESOURCES |
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TRAVEL TIPS |
*Currency Exchange
There is almost no banking system in this locality however you need to bring a suitable amount of cash as this is no place for travelers cheques or plastic.
*Communication
There are plenty of mobile phone around Sen Monorom Town and calls are easy to make from here to other destination in Cambodia.
*Travel
There is a small tourist office in town run by Sam Chin and Long Vanny, who speak excellent French and good English. Sorn Sarun is the official guide and between them they can arrange elephant treks and overnight stays in minority villages.
*Conditions
Sen Monorom Town has electricity from around 6pm to 10pm only, so a torch is useful for late-night ablutions. Hot water is more important in this part of the country, as the temperature can drop dramatically at night. Places without hot-water showers can usually provide flasks of boiling water for bathing. There is no need of air-con in this neck of the woods.
*Foods
There are several cheap food stalls around the couple of unmarked restaurants with San Miguel signs by the entrance to the market, which can knock together some pretty good food. It may be wise to turn up early for dinner as they don't open late. Most guesthouse has small restaurants.
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MONDULKIRI PROVINCE ECONOMY |
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